The aftermarket cassette cog. Its like XX1 but for people with a real-world income and can't afford to drop $425 on a cassette and $300 on a derailleur while keeping the lights on at home. I call them the Working Man's XX1.
I bought the Wolftooth GC (Giant Cog) 40 this summer to squeeze some more gear range out of my 1x10 setup. Wolftooth offers models in 40 and 42 tooth that are machined to match the shift ramps or either Shimano cassettes or Sram. It works by being placed onto your freehub body before your cassette, then remove the 17t cog when assembling the rest of your cassette. Easy peasy.
The GC40 shifts smoothly and looks to be wearing well, although it is a bail-out gear for me that only sees use a couple of times on a typical ride. Its top notch machining quality and looks like it should last longer than the cassette itself. Your mileage may vary though, especially if you use the 40 (or42) tooth gear regularly. In conjunction with my Race Face Narrow-Wide 30t chainring and Zee short cage rear derailleur its the near perfect driveline setup. It would be nice to remove not only the 17 tooth from the cassette but also the 15 and replace it with 16 to give a nicer spread (I see that One-Up components now has a 16t cog that ships with their product).
To me, its worth the $80 to have a bail out gear that will hopefully last a few cassettes. Climbing on the fatbike while tired can be a taxing ordeal, so its nice to know that the 40t is there..... IF I need it. And its made in the USA, so your supporting North American workers when you buy.
I'll give it 4.5/5 stars. It would get the full 5 if it shipped with the 16 tooth like its competitor One-Up.
As always, these product(s) where purchased with my own money. I have not been paid or bribed to review this product. Comments whether positive or negative are purely my opinion only.
Good weather conditions this morning. Took "Little Bric" out for a ride along the Simcoe - Delhi Rail Trail.
We tried our best to break our 1000km season milage today but ended up around 980km this year (so far), pulling Little Bric. Not bad for pulling a 2 year old the entire way in a trailer, and good on him for slugging it out with dad. If we get another good weather day we might just break that 1000km cap, but next week is November and its getting a little cool on the wee-man in the trailer. Might be more solo rides from here on out. I've managed to get alot of riding in on my own this year too, and all things considered its been a decent year for riding thus far.
Little Bric takes a cat nap.
The haulin' rig. My Norco CCX cross/ commuter/ do-it-all bike and the excellent Chariot Cougar2 trailer. This outfit has seen ALOT of use this year.
Trail Sanitization - when someone removes a technical natural feature in order to dumb the terrain down to their skill level.
Recently some Dudley-Do-Right-Dickweed decided it would be a great idea to remove a feature on a trail that is local to me and I ride very frequently. The feature was the toughest spot on this particular trail, a root that stuck out quite far at the top of a small down-and-up gully. It was one of the few challenges in this trail system that tested my metal each time. The removal of this feature has dumbed down this trail considerably.
I'm sure the person responsible was a newer rider who lacked the skill to make it over the feature and in their mind they did everyone a favour by removing it. Bottom line is, that if you can't ride a section / feature, it does not mean that everyone cannot ride it. Removing the feature is a selfish act, and you will never become a better ride if you bring the trail down to your level. The proper way to approach the obstacle in question is to give it a try, if you screw it up or don't have the confidence to ride it then walk the f*cking bike. This is mountain biking, its not meant to be a nascar track in the woods. There are roots, and rocks. Get use to it. Sack up and ride like a man (or woman) and don't be a dickwad by hacking out the good stuff. If your looking for a smooth ride that is devoid of technical challenge then maybe a rail-trail is what your really looking for (FYI: I've got nothing against rail-trails, I love them) and you could trade in that 6" travel full suspension carbon fiber mountain bike for a nice hybrid, you can even get a cup holder to keep your Tim's cup front and center.
I get it Mr. Sanitizer, you're new, don't have mad skills, you don't know its a faux pas to hack apart a trail. No problem. But know this..... if I catch you out there, I'll cut your f*cking hands off with that saw your working that log with. And for everyone else, don't be a sanitizer.
Cheap bikes...... I love them. I'm not talking about the crap you'll find at your local department store whateverthef*ck-mart, I'm talking about well built cheap bikes that are real working machines and not a bicycle shaped object picked up from the toy department.
It seems that I always find myself buying a relatively cheap bike ($1000-1500) and upgrading it to my personal tastes / bomb-proofing. I'm not interested in pop can thin aluminum tubes for lightweight racing or the high cost of carbon fiber frames. Cheaper aluminum frames use heavier wall tubing without as much shape manipulation, which IMO makes a better bike..... for me at least. Although harder to find now, cro-mo frames can be had cheaply as well.
Some of my favourite cheap bikes you ask? Well I've had a few over the years.....
1) Norco CCX3 - $875 +tax
What a work horse. This bike has done it all for me. Road riding, gravel grinding, rail trail jaunts, even some singletrack work. It has seen 25c racing slicks, 32c commuter tires, 35c cross tires, fenders, racks, panniers, kids pulled in trailers... the list goes on. Who can fault a 29lbs cross bike with disc brakes for the price? Especially one that withstands the abuse of a clydesdale on a weekly basis.
2)Nashbar Big 'Ol Fatbike $1100
The only mountain bike I own right now. 4130 chromoly steel frame, 4" wide tires, can run it 29er+ (a format that I'm beginning to really love), decent parts from the OEM. Heavy? Sure. Sexy? Nope. Solid? Like an anvil. I've beat this thing for a year now and have no faults with it except the rear hub died, spent $90 on a replacement and we're good to go again. Bric approved.
3)Origin8 Scout 29er frameset $250
I had bought this frameset from feebay and built it with parts in my bin into a nice rigid singlespeed 29er. another bike made from 4130 it served me well. A nice frameset that would be my go-to choice to build another 29er - singlespeed or geared. Sold it a couple of years ago and have missed it.
Its always nice to see what people make of cheap bikes. Some bike snobs will scoff at your run of the mill $1000 hardtail with an aluminum frame and cheap fork. Fack em! A bike is what you make it, and no matter what you spend it will be seeing some upgrades I'm sure. If the bike feels too slow or heavy - pedal harder. I've seen people on cheap 38lbs fat bikes out ride the guy on a carbon fiber state-of-the-art race machine. Its all about the engine.
I love cheap bikes.
The Bric...._ mountain biker, road rider, heavyweight gear abuser. Built like a brick sh*thouse. No bike is safe.